The History of Jeans and Denim: From Indigo Plant to Blue Jeans

Jeans and denim, ubiquitous and timeless, have woven their way into the fabric of fashion history. From the fields of indigo plants, which give denim its distinctive color, to the global phenomenon of blue jeans, the journey is as rich and varied as the patterns of wear that jeans display over time. The history of jeans and denim is not just a tale of fashion evolution but a reflection of societal shifts, technological advancements, and a growing consciousness around denim sustainability. The indigo dye, central to producing the quintessential indigo blue denim, has a story that spans continents and centuries, emphasizing the depth of cultural exchange inherent in this textile's history.

This article will explore the early beginnings of denim fabric, tracing its roots back to the indigo plant and its crucial role in denim production. We delve into the partnership between Levi Strauss and the invention of blue jeans, a garment that initially served the needs of American workers and later became a symbol of rebellion before ascending to a wardrobe staple. The narrative will then transition into the role of jeans in American culture, examining how it mirrors societal changes and the denim industry's response to calls for sustainable denim. By charting the evolution from the original blue jeans to today’s high streets and catwalks, we offer a comprehensive overview of the indelible mark jeans and denim have left on both fashion and society at large.

Early Beginnings: The Birth of Denim

The origins of denim can be traced back to the city of Nîmes in France, where a unique fabric known as "Serge de Nîmes" was born.

Serge de Nîmes

While historians still debate the exact birthplace of denim, it is widely believed that the fabric was classified as a twill weave, using one colored thread and one white thread. [1] In an unexpected turn of events, during an unsuccessful attempt to replicate a hard-wearing cotton fabric called "jeane" (named after the city of Genoa, Italy), the weavers of Nîmes inadvertently developed a unique and sturdy fabric unlike anything else. [1]

This fabric was made using a twill weave, with the weft passing under the warp threads. The weavers used indigo to dye the warp threads blue, but left the weft threads their natural white color. This process gave the fabric a distinctive blue color on one side and white on the other, which they called "Serge de Nîmes" (translated to "twill of Nîmes"). [1] The term "denim" is derived from this fabric, "Serge de Nîmes," first woven in Nîmes, France. [1] [2]

The Role of Weavers

Nîmes once had a thriving textile industry, with large factories producing various fabrics during the 18th and 19th centuries. [2] Thousands of people worked in the textile industry, crouching along the river that flowed through the streets of Nîmes, dyeing cotton, wool, and silk. [2] Many of these fabrics, including the serge de Nimes, were exported to North America, catching the eye of businessman Levi Strauss in the 1860s. [2] Strauss used this new fabric, rebranded as denim, to create what became known as blue jeans. [2]

The unique weaving method employed by the tailors of Nîmes, where the weft passes under two or more warp threads, resulted in a reinforced fabric. [3] The outer warped threads were dyed blue or indigo, while the inner weft thread was left in its original white color. This is why jeans and denim jackets appear blue on the outside and white internally. [3] Denim's iconic aging process, where the hidden white begins to push through the original blue, is a direct result of this weaving method. [3] The name "denim" derives from "de Nimes," meaning "from Nimes." [3]

The Indigo Connection

Indigo, the color that gives blue jeans their distinctive hue, has a rich and fascinating history that spans continents and centuries. [4] [5]

Origin and Production

The name "indigo" itself is derived from the Greek word "indikón," which later became "indicum" in Latin, meaning "a substance from India." [4] This reflects the deep-rooted connection between indigo and the Indian subcontinent, where the indigo pigment has traditionally been extracted from the dried leaves of the indigofera tinctoria plant, also known as "true indigo." [4]

The process of extracting the dye involves fermentation, a series of biochemical reactions that produce an indigo sludge, which can then be dried into blocks and ground into powder. [4] Indigo is one of the oldest dyestuffs still in use today, with a 6000-year-old scrap of fabric dyed with indigo discovered in Peru, attesting to its ancient origins. [4]

While India was the primary source of true indigo, Europe had its own version made from woad, a plant with similar properties to indigofera tinctoria. [4] Woad-dyed textiles appeared in Europe as early as the 8th century BC, dominating the region for over a thousand years. [4] However, true indigo's superior binding properties, especially with less absorbent fibers like cotton, eventually made it the preferred alternative. [4]

Indigo in the Global Trade

The introduction of true indigo from India was met with fierce resistance from the European woad industry, leading to what historian Jenny Balfour-Paul calls the "woad war." [4] Woad growers, merchants, and even entire nations fought against the invasion of true indigo, fearing the loss of their livelihoods. [4] As late as the 18th century, using true indigo remained punishable by death in Germany and France. [4] Nevertheless, true indigo eventually surpassed woad, becoming the dominant source of blue dye worldwide.

The discovery of synthetic indigo in 1878 by German chemist Adolf von Baeyer marked a turning point in the industry. [4] Von Baeyer spent three decades refining synthetic indigo with BASF, and the resulting "Indigo Pure," introduced in 1897, was a phenomenal success. [4] By 1914, 95% of all-natural indigo production had disappeared, replaced by the synthetic version. [4] Today, almost all blue denim is dyed with synthetic indigo, a testament to the enduring legacy of this vibrant hue. [4]

Levi Strauss and the Rise of Blue Jeans

The Gold Rush Era

In 1853, Levi Strauss, a Bavarian-born dry goods merchant, arrived in San Francisco at the age of 24 to open a West Coast branch of his brothers' New York wholesale dry goods business. [1] Seeking to capitalize on the immense sales opportunity created by the California Gold Rush, Strauss quickly established himself as a well-respected businessman and local philanthropist over the next two decades. [2]

Partnership with Jacob Davis

One day, the wife of a local laborer approached Jacob Davis, a Reno, Nevada tailor, requesting a pair of pants for her husband that wouldn't easily fall apart. [1] Davis devised a solution by hammering rivets onto the pocket corners and other points of strain, making the pants more durable. [1] Unable to afford the patent application fee, Davis proposed a partnership with Levi Strauss & Co. in 1872. [1] [3]

Their "waist high overalls" quickly gained favor among the region's miners, teamsters, lumberjacks, and farmers. [3] By the end of 1873, thousands of San Franciscans were wearing Strauss and Davis's riveted pants. [3] On May 20, 1873, Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis obtained a U.S. patent (No. 139,121) on the process of putting rivets in men's work pants, marking the birth of blue jeans. [1] [6]

Initially, the riveted pants were made from denim, the traditional fabric for men's workwear. [6] Although referred to as "waist overalls" or "overalls" until the 1960s, the term "jeans" was eventually adopted by baby boomers. [6] This partnership between Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis is considered the "birthday" of blue jeans, as it was the first-time rivets were placed in traditional denim pants, creating what we now recognize as jeans. [1]

Jeans in American Culture

Early 20th Century Workwear

In the early 20th century, denim was adopted as the preferred workwear fabric choice for western cowboys, miners, and farmers in the United States. Not only was the fabric inexpensive, but denim was more durable and sturdier than the popular alternative – 'jean' (traditionally made from cotton, linen, and wool). [1] After Levi's & Strauss patented the metal rivets to make them more hard-wearing, they began producing the iconic denim blue trousers that became a common feature among working men. [1]

The classic symbol of the American West soon became a staple in wardrobes. Modern jeans began to appear in the 1920s, but sales were largely confined to the working people of the western United States, such as cowboys, lumberjacks, and railroad workers. [2] It's thought that Levi's jeans were first introduced to the East during the dude ranch craze of the 1930s. [2]

Impact on Fashion and Society

Dude ranches arose in response to the romanticization of the American West that began to occur in the late 19th century. [3] Today, tumbleweed, rodeos, and Wyatt Earp are as much symbols of the Western ideal as the humble denim jean. In 1893, historian Frederick Jackson Turner stated that the United States frontier was demographically "closed," which in turn conjured feelings of nostalgia for bygone days. [3] With the ruthless lifestyle of the Wild West now gone, this nostalgia could be explored without the risk of gunslingers and shoot-outs. It was an era when the Wild West could be commercialized and romanticized. [3]

The Western adventures of famous figures were made available to paying guests from cities of the East, who were referred to as 'dudes.' [6] Some guest ranch visitors expected a somewhat sanitized and more luxurious version of the "cowboy life," while others were more tolerant of the authentic odors and timetable of a working ranch. [7]

Another chapter unfolded during World War II when blue jeans were declared an 'essential' commodity and were sold only to those engaged in defense or military work. [3] In the 1940s, the American GIs brought their beloved denim pairs with them overseas. Although the production of denim workwear (or waist overalls as they were known at the time) declined during the war due to a shortage of the raw materials needed to produce them, the end of the war marked a change in their perception. The denim jean became less associated with workwear and more closely linked to leisurewear.

The dark hue and stiffness of denim made it a popular fabric for trousers in the 1950s. Zippers were incorporated for the first time in 1954, and the younger generation began to wear denim trousers as leisurewear. As more and more young people began wearing denim, they began referring to them as 'jeans' rather than denim overalls. Meanwhile, movie star icons such as Marilyn Monroe reimagined the denim jean as an empowering and moderately sexualized style.

James Dean and Marlon Brando redefined the humble denim jean forever with their highly stylized roles in cult movies such as 'The Wild One' and 'Rebel without a Cause.' [4] Naturally, everyone wanted to emulate these idols. Culturally, jeans became a symbol of youth rebellion during the 1950s and 1960s as college students started wearing them as a protest against the Vietnam War and the formality of the establishment. [4] At the same time, the denim jean became popular among motorcycle boys and juvenile delinquents, largely influenced by these screen idols. [4] Straight-legged jeans became associated with these rebellious figures, which led to many US schools banning them from being worn. [4] It seemed that nothing could slow down the popularity of denim jeans, as one newspaper quoted: "90% of American youth wear jeans everywhere, except in bed or church." [4]

Other countries quickly started to get accustomed to wearing jeans too. American servicemen on duty in Europe and Japan would often wear them when off-duty to show that they were Americans. [5] The denim jean became a cultural signifier. The trousers showed the world a happier way of life, something that people needed, especially after what they had endured during World War II. [5]

From the late 1950s, denim was readily associated with rebelliousness, individuality, and self-expression. [9] Students began wearing jeans to college, and the humble jean trouser became an unofficial uniform at protests, discos, and all range of social activities. [9] At the same time, women were starting to embrace sexual liberation through their clothing. Their denim jeans came to reflect this spirit as they wore bolder styles with slimmer waists and wider, 'bell-bottoms.' [9]

Conclusion

Throughout the compelling journey from the early roots of denim in the fields of indigo plants to its embodiment as the iconic blue jeans, we have traversed through history, culture, and changing societal norms. This narrative not only highlighted the technological and fashion evolution of jeans but also underscored their role as a symbol of rebellion, workmanship, and eventually, universal fashion. The transformation of denim from a humble fabric into a global phenomenon mirrors broader cultural exchanges and the shifting tides of societal values. Emphasizing sustainability in the present day reflects a consciousness towards preserving our planet, indicating that the evolution of denim is continuous, mirroring societal progress and awareness.

As we reflect on the significance of denim in our culture, it’s clear that jeans are more than just a piece of clothing; they are a fabric woven into the very identity of societies worldwide. The story of denim is a testament to innovation and resilience, adapting through centuries to remain relevant and beloved. This narrative encourages a broader consideration of how ordinary items can have extraordinary impacts on fashion, culture, and environmental sustainability. As we look towards the future, the enduring legacy of denim invites us to ponder on the possibilities of innovation, sustainability, and cultural expression that lie ahead in the ever-evolving world of fashion.

FAQs

1. What is the historical significance of Indigo Blue jeans?
Indigo Blue jeans gained popularity in the United States after 1873, when Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss began selling their durable work pants. Originally, these pants were made from twill cloth that dates back to the 1800s, originating from Genoa, Italy. Today, denim is typically dyed with synthetic indigo.

2. How were blue jeans first created?
Blue jeans were invented when Levi Strauss, a businessman from San Francisco, and Jacob Davis, a tailor from Reno, Nevada, received a patent on May 20, 1873. They developed work pants that were reinforced with metal rivets, which marked the inception of one of the most iconic garments globally: blue jeans.

3. Are the colors indigo blue and denim blue the same?
Yes, indigo blue and denim blue refer to the same color. The distinctive deep blue color of denim is achieved using indigo dye. The term "indigo" originates from the Greek word 'indikón', which translates to 'a substance from India' in Latin.

4. What role does indigo play in the production of jeans?
Indigo dye is crucial in creating jeans, as it is the only molecule that provides the unique and widely admired blue color of the fabric. Originally sourced from a plant, the surge in demand for blue jeans during the 20th century led to the adoption of synthetic indigo, which is predominantly used today.

References

[1] - https://www.byrdie.com/the-history-of-jeans-2040397
[2] - https://sanvt.com/blogs/journal/history-of-jeans
[3] - https://www.hawthornintl.com/history-of-denim
[4] - https://denimhunters.com/denim-wiki/denim-explained/indigo/
[5] - https://indigowares.com/blog/origins-indigo-dye-long-before-blue-denim-hit-scene/
[6] - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeans
[7] - https://www.bbc.com/news/business-37523552
[8] - https://bragvintage.com/history/brief-history-of-denim
[9] - https://www.npr.org/2011/11/07/142094103/indigo-the-indelible-color-that-ruled-the-world